Showing posts with label tlingit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tlingit. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

We Made It


This is a father’s day I will never forget.  We made it to Alaska today.  We were both so excited to see that welcome sign as we crossed the international border.  A young man from Saul Palo Brazil was standing in front of the sign taking photos of himself.  He said it had taken him 50 days to drive on his motorcycle to Alaska.  He was very excited.
Cape Coral to Alaska in 27 Days
Saul Palo Brazil to Alaska in 50 Days

We took photos of each other by the sign and the international border.  You can’t appreciate our jubilation because you didn’t ride the last 100 miles of the highway in the Yukon.  It took us four hours from Haines Junction.  We couldn’t drive much over 25 to 30 MPH much of the way.  There were huge frost heaves, holes and other hazards I don’t know how to describe.  You can’t count on the little markers that are posted to point out frost heaves.  The biggest ones often had no marking at all.  I learned to spot them by watching the lines on the highway.  If they got wavy up ahead that meant there were heaves up ahead.
Notice the frost heave just ahead.  If you are going 50 mph here you are going to break something.

Some of the road was completely torn up, pavement and all.  Miles of it, in fact.  We came across a couple from Arcadia, Fl. stopped along the road just north of Beaver Creek.  They had just entered the hazardous zone from Alaska.  They didn’t drive this road coming up.  I think they took the ferry.  They hit a huge frost heave and broke the tow bar on their pickup truck and the tailgate dropped causing them to almost lose the motorcycle sitting in the back of the truck.  Their eyes were as large as saucers.  They were very shaken by what had just happened to them.  They almost lost the truck and the motorcycle.  He said the tow bar was holding by a thread when they stopped.  His wife was going to drive the truck to the nearest town in hopes of fixing the tow bar.


He asked me how much farther this type of driving went to the south.  I said 100 miles.  He looked at me in disbelief.  They had just entered the bad area and thought this must be the worst of it.  We thought it was pretty easy going at this point but didn’t tell them that.  We didn’t want them to collapse right there.

The road is bad but the view is beautiful.

We saw people driving way faster than they should the entire way.  We also saw the tow truck picking up one motor home and the guy that does welding in another place.   The road can fool you.  It looks good in many places.  The frost heaves are not really apparent unless you are looking for them.  The lady from Arcadia said she hit her head on the ceiling when they hit the heave that did them in.  We passed it a short distance later and I have no doubt it nearly catapulted her through the roof.  We had been driving slowly and we were bouncing around like the ladies in the cancan line at the Frantic Follies in Whitehorse.


We heard the story of another guy with a brand new motor home who hit a frost heave way too fast and ripped the cabinets right off the wall.  You can do some real damage on this section if you aren’t careful.
But let me say this.  The entire highway through Canada was in better shape than any of the interstates in the U.S..  They are very well maintained.  Except for the last one hundred miles the Alaska Highway is a pussy cat.  The reason the last bit is so bad is due to the type of terrain it traverses.  It is made up of gravel and glacial deposits that hold large quantities of water.  It freezes and thaws and that isn’t good for the road up on top.  Engineers and scientist have been trying to come up with a paving method that would hold up for many years but to date nothing they have tried has worked.  We saw one area that looked like another experiment.  They had dozen of pipes sticking up out of the ground like stacks possibly to ventilate the ground under the highway.  If it worked, it would be a very costly remedy.  It would take millions of these things to line the whole 100 miles.

I can’t tell you the excitement to see our first 35 MPH speed limit sign.  After 6 days of reading everything in kilometers seeing that first sign of America was sweet.  Our next joy came at the first gas stop.  It was just $4.50 per gallon for cash.  That is more than a dollar a gallon less than what we had been paying.  

There is one long stretch from Ft. Nelson to Watson Lake where there are only little outpost gas stations.  We only hold 40 gallons so I set my driving limit at 200 miles to have a safety margin.  We can go between 280 and 320 miles depending on our fuel mileage at any given time.  The distance between these two places is right at my limit.  That meant I had to fuel up at an outpost in between to be safe.  It is a long walk through empty land with bears everywhere.  I wouldn’t want to be running out of gas.
I had to pay $192.9 for a liter of gas at the outpost.  That figures to be $7.33 Canadian per US gallon.  That doesn’t include the exchange rate which would make it more like $8.00 per gallon.  Most places we paid $5.50 to $.6.00 per gallon.  Americans whine about $3.85.  
Everything in Canada is expensive compared to the US.  We think it is bad at home because we don’t know what others are paying for the same goods and services.  Even taking away the disparity dollar, the cost in Canadian is high.  Our friend from Saul Palo agreed.  Canada was the most expensive place he traveled through.

I picked up a few, "I drove the Alaska Highway and Survived",  bumper stickers today.  I earned them believe me.  That last 80 miles was terrible.  Many people bust hitches, springs, axles and all kinds of things on that stretch.  Years ago the whole highway used to be that bad.   We are in for repairs ourselves.  We will probably be a couple of days at least.  They have to fly parts in to this area.  We are talking remote.

We met some nice folks along the way and we are still having fun.  This photo is an example of Alaskan lawn ornaments.  The sign reads, "Alaska Beautification".   Most people seem to have a large collection of junk vehicles to decorate their lawns.  


Sunday, June 19, 2011

Teslin, Yukon


It’s raining.  It has been most of the night.  At least we slept well.  Darlie covered our bedroom windows with thick heavy blankets to keep the light out.  We were in bed at eight.  We were both worn out from lack of sleep.  I slept right through until seven.  How sweet it is.
The weather up here is very fickle.  As you travel along, you run through cold showers where the temperature drops dramatically.   Then in a few minutes you are in bright sunshine with temperatures in the 70s.  You can get sprinkles anytime.
The Sign Forest at Watson Lake

This RV park is supposed to have wifi but the signal is very weak.  It would probably work if I went up to the office.  I am not going to do that in the rain.  So far, the parks we have stopped at have had very good wifi.  This is the first where it has been unsatisfactory.  
We are in Teslin, Yukon.  The RV park is right on a lakeshore.  They have full service such as fuel, propane, laundry, restaurant, motel and even a museum on local history.  The campsites are nothing to write home about but they are adequate.

We were so exhausted when we got here yesterday, I decided to take Darlie out to dinner to avoid the chore of cooking and cleanup.  There wasn’t much on the menu other than an assortment of sandwiches and a variety of huge hamburgers ranging in price from $9.99 to $16.99.  On check in, the young woman told me they had a chicken dinner special beginning at five o’clock.  We opted for the chicken dinner special.  It came with one side; French fries, potato salad, garden salad or broccoli cheese soup.  Darlie took the soup and I took the fries.  
Our dinner arrived in short order.  I had a huge plate of home cut fries with three pieces of fried chicken perched on top.    The chicken was a scrawny little thing.  He was probably doing all he could to survive on the tundra when they came along and removed his head to feed a Yankee tourist.  I felt sorry for the little guy but gobbled him down with little guilt.
Darlie said the soup was delicious.  The chicken was a bit greasy but it sure tasted good after being on the road all day.  Besides, were we tired and this was not time to complain about the food.  You have to consider where you are in the world.  There are no supermarkets or big restaurant supply companies.  This is Mom and Pop country where they try to feed you and treat you with down home hospitality.  They were very gracious and friendly.  Though I may jest about the meal, I don’t mean to demean these people.  They offered us the best they have in this remote part of the world and we enjoyed it immensely.
It is time to get Darlie up.  We need to get on the road for Whitehorse and beyond today.  We have been five days since arriving in Canada and it looks like we have the better part of two more to make it to Alaska.  Some of the worst road is just ahead of us.  I don’t expect to make very good time once we hit the area of frost heaves and broken pavement.  The reports we are getting say it is very bad and we have to go very slowly.
The Teslin area is beautiful.  The Teslin River is very large passing right through town.  The surrounding landscape is dotted with lakes of various sizes.  All are reported to have a large variety of fish for the catching.
I was visiting with a local Tlingit native this morning.  He said the best time of year to see wildlife near the highway is in May.  Last month the caribou were standing in the road like cattle.  This time of year they have moved on up into the mountains where they will birth their young.  We visited for sometime about his youth and various jobs he has held up here.  He told me of running his trap lines in the winter months and how game seems to be scare this year.  As we were parting ways, he turned to me and wished me a happy father’s day.  I had forgotten what day it was let alone that it was father’s day.
We are in Whitehorse right now.  Darlie is in the drugstore looking for something.  Whitehorse is a historic village and capital of the Yukon.  Dawson City had held that honor until so many people moved away from there.  Whitehorse is home to the SS Klondike, one of the old riverboats used in the gold rush days.  You also can be entertained by the Frantic Follies.  Both of which we have done when we were here in 2003.  If you are traveling up this way, be sure to put Whitehorse on your list of places to stop.  The Alaska Highway bypasses downtown so be sure to go through town.  
SS Klondike